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Crochet is a great craft to both relax and get the creative juices flowing! It can help with your mental health and self expression.
These beginner crochet tutorials are aimed at complete novices. The lessons will cover the basics such as how hold to the hook and yarn, as well as the essential crochet stitches. We’ll cover making circles, changing colours and combining the stitches. I’ll even be teaching you how to read crochet patterns!
Most of the lessons will have a practice swatch to put your new found knowledge into practice.
By the end of this beginners crochet course, you will have the skills and confidence to make hats, bags, blankets and an addiction to yarn!
For those that prefer learning by watching, at the bottom of the page is the video version of the lesson.
“If I were able to leave you with only one piece of crochet advice, it would be to always have fun. Learn the basics, but then just go crazy with your crafty self!” -Twinkie Chan
Contents
Welcome to Lesson 10 of the Beginner Crochet Series!
Today we’ll be learning how to change colour after one or several rows.
I’ll be using UK terminology throughout this tutorial, with US terms in brackets. Checkout this handy chart of the different terminology between the 2 countries.
You can download the pattern here. There are separate PDFs for UK and US terms.
The new colour is added at the end of the row. Remember to leave a long tail to weave in.
The technique is the same for all stitches, the only difference is how many chains you start with.
We’ll begin with a Dc (Sc) stitch, followed by a Htr (Hdc), then a Tr (Dc).
Loop the new colour onto the hook.
Pull a loop up.
For a Dc stitch, chain 1.
Gently pull on the old colour to tighten the loop.
Crochet the stitch as normal.
Loop the new colour onto the hook.
Pull a loop up.
Chain 1 or 2 for a Htr (Hdc). I chained 2.
Gently pull on the old colour to tighten the loop.
Crochet the stitch as normal.
Loop the new colour onto the hook.
Pull a loop up.
Chain 3 for a Tr (Dc).
Gently pull on the old colour to tighten the loop.
Crochet the stitch as normal.
To change back to the 1st colour after several rows, the yarn is carried up the side of your work. Of course you can cut the old colour and rejoin when needed, but this adds more ends to weave in, and who wants that!
At the end of the row, place the next colour on top of the current colour.
Make a chain with the current colour around the old colour, bringing it level with the row.
Continue crocheting as normal.
I bring the yarn up every 2 or 3 rows.
To change back, loop the next colour over the hook,
Lightly hold the new colour as you pull it through the loop, so it’s not pulling on the rows below.
Make the necessary chains for the stitch, and tighten the previous colour.
Continue crocheting as normal.
When changing colours, you want all the yarn ends to be on the same side. This is known as the wrong side, abbreviated to WS.
The right side (RS) should be clear of any ends.
Make sure that the old yarn lays on the wrong side when you add or change colours.
To change back to the 1st colour after several rows, the yarn is carried up the side of your work. Of course you can cut the old colour and rejoin when needed, but this adds more ends to weave in, and who wants that!
At the end of the row, place the next colour on top of the current colour.
Make a chain with the current colour around the old colour, bringing it level with the row.
Continue crocheting as normal.
I bring the yarn up every 2 or 3 rows.
To change back, loop the next colour over the hook,
Lightly hold the new colour as you pull it through the loop, so it’s not pulling on the rows below.
Make the necessary chains for the stitch, and tighten the previous colour.
Continue crocheting as normal.
When changing colours, you want all the yarn ends to be on the same side. This is known as the wrong side, abbreviated to WS.
The right side (RS) should be clear of any ends.
Make sure that the old yarn lays on the wrong side when you add or change colours.
In order to change every row, the next colour needs to be in place at the start of the row. To achieve this, the colour is carried under the stitches of the current colour.
The same technique is used for all stitches. Be careful to not pull on the carried yarn as it will pucker the row.
Lay the colour to be carried on the wrong side of the work.
Place it over your hook before making the stitch with the current colour.
Yarn over with the current colour,
Pull up a loop, and close the stitch. The carried yarn should be sitting inside the stitch
If the right side is facing you, the carried yarn should be behind the work.
The carried yarn will sit behind the work.
When the wrong side is facing you, the carried yarn should be in front of the work.
The carried yarn will sit in front of the work.
If the right side is facing you, the carried yarn should be behind the work.
When the wrong side is facing you, the carried yarn should be in front of the work.
This is how the carried yarn looks under Dc (Sc) stitches.
The carried yarn under Htr (Hdc) stitches.
And under Tr (Dc) stitches. Sometimes the carried yarn will show under taller stitches.
These are the chart symbols and abbreviations in both UK and US terminology.
I’ll be using UK terminology for this tutourial, US terminology will be in brackets.
The notes mention the chain 3 is counted as a stitch.
The gauge is 4 rows by 5 stitches per inch, based on the Dc (Sc) and Htr (Hdc) rows. The swatch measures 15.87cm/6.25in in height, and 10.16cm/4cm in width.
We’ll need a 4mm hook and 4 colours of acrylic yarn.
The materials table show us that each colour is given a letter.
You can use a colour chart to keep track.
The notes mention the chain 3 is counted as a stitch.
The gauge is 4 rows by 5 stitches per inch, based on the Dc (Sc) and Htr (Hdc) rows. The swatch measures 15.87cm/6.25in in height, and 10.16cm/4cm in width.
We’ll need a 4mm hook and 4 colours of acrylic yarn.
The materials table show us that each colour is given a letter.
You can use a colour chart to keep track.
The stitch and abbreviations page has a new term for the crossed trebles (doubles) – CTr (CDc).
It also shows how to do this stitch in the special stitches section.
Let’s start crocheting!
Step 1 –Chain 21 and make a Htr (Hdc) in the second chain from the hook.
This tells us the Htr (Hdc) has a turning chain of 1.
Step 2 – Continue make a stitch in each of the remaining 19 chains, for a total of 20.
This is the same as row 1.
Chain 1, turn your work, starting in the 1st stitch, work 20 Htr (Hdc).
Cut the yarn, leaving at least 5 inches to weave in. You may find this better to do after joining the new colour in the next row.
Join colour B, remember to lay colour A on the wrong side! Chain 1 and turn your work. Crochet 20 Dc (Sc), but do not cut the yarn as we’ll be using it in row 5.
Change to colour C, colour B will need to be carried. Work 20 Dc (Sc) and cut Colour C.
Change back to colour B – again checking that colour A is on the wrong side.
Chain 1, work 20 Dc (Sc) and cut colour B.
Add colour C, chain 1, work 20 Dc (Sc). Do not cut the yarn, we’ll be using it for the following rows.
Step 1 – The row starts with telling us how to do the crossed trebles (doubles). The instructions will just use the abbreviation, rather than breaking the stitch down each time it’s made.
The chart instructions here are just to illustrate how the stitch is made, the actual chart doesn’t have the text.
So for crossed trebles (doubles) which are worked over 3 stitches – skip the 1st and 2nd stitches (this doesn’t include the stitch covered by the turning chain). Work a Tr (Dc) in the 3rd stitch, chain 1, and work a Tr (Dc) in the 1st skipped stitch.
Step 2 – Chain 3, which counts as a stitch, and turn. Work the crossed trebles 6 times, and end the row with a Tr (Dc) in the turning chain.
The stitch count will be a total of 14 Tr (Dc) and 6 chains.
Step 1 – Once again, The row starts with telling us how to work the crossed trebles (doubles).
As we’re working over a row of crossed trebles (doubles) the instructions are slightly different – skip the 1st stitch and chain, work a Tr (Dc) in the 3rd stitch, chain 1, and work a Tr (Dc) in the 1st skipped stitch.
Step 2 – Chain 3, turn, and work the crossed trebles 6 times, and end the row with a Tr (Dc) in the turning chain.
The stitch count will be a total of 14 Tr (Dc) and 6 chains.
Continue with colour D, chain 1, turn, work 20 Dc (Sc). Cut the yarn.
Join colour B, chain 1, turn, work 20 Dc (Sc). Don’t cut the yarn as it’ll be used in row 12.
Add colour C, chain 1, turn, work 20 Dc (Sc). Cut the yarn.
Change back to colour B, chain 1, turn, work 20 Dc (Sc). Cut the yarn.
Rows 13 and 14 are both worked in colour A. Chain 1, turn, work 20 Dc (Sc). Cut the yarn at the end of row 14.
I hope that your proud of your progress! Your now ready to try out my free scarf pattern.
In Lesson 11 we’ll be learning the basics of shaping using increases and decreases – see you there!
Welcome!
My name’s Katie and I’m a crochet addict!
I learnt to crochet about 20 years ago whilst living in Ireland. I soon had a street stall selling my crochet hats and bags, eventually progressing to organising craft fairs.
I returned to street selling for a few years to fund my travels around Latin America, before settling down and becoming a mum to two cool kids.
I love working with colour and creating vibrant, detailed crochet and wanted to translate that into patterns.
Free Crochet Scarf Pattern – Wagon Wheel
Crochet Ear Warmer Pattern
Crochet Short Scarf Pattern
Contents
